Photos of Gangtok Visit, Summer of 2009.

Here are a few samples…

Today we return to the heat, dust & polution of the plains. Gangtok was pollution free most of the time.

We had asked the travel agent in Siliguri who had rented us the cab on the journey from Siliguri to Gangtok to send us [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 18 – Day 8 – The Return to the Plains

Today we return to the heat, dust & polution of the plains. Gangtok was pollution free most of the time.

We had asked the travel agent in Siliguri who had rented us the cab on the journey from Siliguri to Gangtok to send us a car at Gangtok. The car was to arrive at 12.00 noon. We had planned to stop mid way to go river rafting in the Tista (spelling?) river (Cost – Rs. 325/- per head, adult or child). You can opt to go rafting over various distances, e.g., 11 km, 7 km etc. The price varies with distance.

Noon is aslo the check-out time for Mintokling. I paid by credit card. Pema, the manager put a 10% service charge on everything. Also she told me very clearly that she wanted rhe room vacated by noon. This is the first hotel i have come across that is so insistent on the check-out time. All this happened at a quarter to 12 and one of the hotel waiters / bell boys was waiting outside to take my luggage out. I told him to come back at 12. Rather childish but I was put off. I have often stayed in my hotel room after check out and since Prma insisted on the time, so would I!

So we were tossed out of Mintokling at noon. Pema did not offer us the hotel lounge to wait for our cab. The bell boys just dumped our luggage on the street outside the guest house. That earned them no tips.

Then the secobd nightmare started. We kept calling the cab driver’s mobile phone and he kept telling us that he was stuck in traffic and would be there in another half hour. We waited outside on the street till 2.30 pm when finally the driver showed up with another passenger. Then it struck me that the travel agent in Sulliguri was taking me for a ride. He had no intention of sending an empty car to Gangtok though he was charging me for both legs of the trip. The driver had met the 9.30 am train from Kolkata, picked up passengers and driven to Gangtok to arrive at about 2.15 pm, the same time we had arrived three days ago. He had no doubt charged those people double the fare claiming that he would have to return with an empty car.

Anyway we pilled in and drove off, leaving Gangtok close to 3.00 pm. This driver wasn’t a good one and gave mw a few tense moments on the mountain roads. I had to keep shouting at the idiot in Bengali to slow down. Padmaja and the kids fell asleep in the back seat and slept through most of the journey. I stopped the car ouside Gangtok to buy a loaf of bread, some potato chips, and a couple of packets of biscuits. Mamli & Bablu practically devoured the lot, having missed lunch. I dared not stop anywhere for a bite to eat as we had a train to catch at New Jalpaiguri at 8.00 pm.

We arrived at Siliguri at 6.30 pm and stopped at the LIC guest house on Sevak Road. I called the travel agent (Raju & Tarun) and told them flatly that I would only pay half the agreed fare and they should come and meet me to discuss it. There was a lot of spluttering on the other side and indignant muttering which changed into abuse at which point I disconnected.

Tarun & Raju arrived about 10 minutes later. There was more shouting but I stood my ground. I was the customer and paying for a service with which I was very dissatisfied. Secondly that idiot Tarun of the travel agency was abusive from the first. I would have paid them the whole amount if they had but apologized for their grossly deficient service. I finally left for the station at New Jalpaiguri leaving Rs. 800/- lying on the ground where I dropped it as the idiots refused to accept it. I think this is the first time a customer has stood up to these idiots and refused to be brow-beaten.

We made it to the station in time to catch the Darjeeling Mail to Kolkata which left New Jalpaiguri at 8.00 pm. We will arrive in Kolkata early tomorrow morning, about 6.00 am.

Thus ends our Gangtok Trip in the summer of ’09.

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We left for Tsomgo Lake a little later than planned, at 9.30 am. We had booked a Mahindra Max on Monday and the Driver arrived at 8.30. He was a grouchy chap whose first words were ‘you are late’ in tones that reminded me of my old [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 16 – Day 6 – Tsomgo Lake:

We left for Tsomgo Lake a little later than planned, at 9.30 am. We had booked a Mahindra Max on Monday and the Driver arrived at 8.30. He was a grouchy chap whose first words were ‘you are late’ in tones that reminded me of my old Maths teacher.

Anyway, we had packed far a day in snow – extra socks for everybody, a change of pants for Mamli and Bablu, extra shirt for Bablu and a top for Mamli, scarfs for Padmaja, Mamli and Bablu, sweaters and jackets etc. We also had a good quantity of finger foods, juice and water.

I should have bought another pack of Duracell for the digital camera. I am using it a lot and the new 4 Gb CF card I purchased on eBay seems to be a power hog. Also I have to keep switching off the LCD viewer otherwise I would have even bigger power drain. Anyway suffice to say that I didn’t find Duracells anywhere. I ended up paying an atrocious Rs. 60/- for 2 alkaline AA cells. I haven’t used them yet but won’t be surprised if they peter out after a few shots. I have managed so far by shifting the 4 cells in the camera and taking them out to cool down. Just allowing the cells to cool down gave me another dozen shots with the LCD on for about 5 more minutes.

We didn’t stop on the way other than the mandatory stops at the police / military check points. At the first near Hanuman Tok I had to buy 4 tickets for Rs. 10/- each. The tickets claim that the monies collected is used for conservation in the area.

The road after the first check point climbs steeply. It is in very bad shape in a good many stretches particularly in the upper regions near the lake but is well maintained for most of it’s length. There is a large military presence and the huge army trucks have churned the road into a muddy quagmire in places. Traffic is disciplined and nobody tries any tricks. No doubt with the kilometer deep drop to the river bed, none of rhe local daredevils try anthing on this road.

The second check point is about 5 km from the lake and the road from there is pathetic. Lots of construction with earth moving machinery and very heavy car, jeep and military truck traffic. But our driver was up to the task.

As a result of all that traffic the so called clean Himalayan air was conspicuous by its absence. Diesel fumes predominated and made the air foul to the extreme. The natural beauty was also somewhat marred by all the shops, at least near the lake’s approach. Further afield nature reasserted herself and I cannot begin to describe the beauty of the landscape.

We were expecting to rent rubber moccasins at the shops near the lake and as soon as we parked and disembarked we were accosted by one of the shopkeepers. We took up his offer, Rs. 35/- per shoe initially but Rs. 20/- after bargaining. We already had warm clothes and just rented shoes from him. Leaving our own shoes and the food / water basket in his shop we walked up the short flight of stairs to the lake level, to be immediately surrounded by Yak drivers offering their services for a Yak ride to ‘Point Zero’, an outcropping of rock that jutted out into the lake.

This point zero is about a about a fourth of the lake’s length from the tappering end. The lake itself resembles a sperm cell wearing a round cap. There is a narrow walkway around one side and it is narrow! About 4 feet wide and snow covered. And the Yaks use the same trail, adding their dung and urine to the snow or rather slush. At places the snow is more than a foot deep and the Yaks have churned it into a freezing slush that can catch the unwary and tip some of the cold dung laced water into shoes. Bablu and Mamli’s shoes weren’t very high and they got their feet wet. Padmaja and I gave them our socks to make sure they had dry feet. By this time we were about half way to point zero and after a small snowball fight Mamli, Bablu and Padmaja refused to go on. I wanted photographs and walked on alone. Within 10 feet of where I left them was a small stream flowing into the lake and the Yaks had churned a wide swath around it into foot deep slush. I stepped into one in spite of being careful and got a shoe full of freezing water and snow. The stuff literally froze my foot and I had to put down my camera bag on a small rock sticking out of the snow while I hopped around on one foot trying to pull the other shoe off and empty it before putting it o again.

I finally made it to point zero and it was worth the effort. The place was full of snorting Yaks and their rude handlers, with more dung and urine but at least that was isolated to one area in the center of the land mass jutting into the lake.

I took my photographs and seeing me alone with my cameras a few young couples roped me in to take their photos posing in the snow..

I also noticed two army men keeping an eye on the idiots who were capering too close to the crumbling, snow covered shores. They had whistles and used them often. I suppose there were many idiots around.

I walked back to Padmaja, Mamli and Bablu and we started back to the shop where we had left our shoes. I had Bablu by the arm but he slipped a number of times and got his feet wet again. That is when I started shouting at the Yak drivers and pushing the placid, plodding beasts away while I tried to walk as fast as I could. Bablu was crying by this time from his freezing feet and I was desperate to get him back to the shop.

The shopkeeper immediately understood the problem and quickly put some water to boil. I asked him if he had any mustard oil and he immediately brought some in a plate. I rushed down to the jeep for the bag of spare clothes after pulling off Bablu’s shoes and wet socks, leaving Padmaja to massage his feet with warm water and then mustard oil. In the meantime Mamlu had taken care of her feet and was ready for the dry socks I brought back.

The shopkeeper offered us hot Maggi and we gratefully took up his offer. The Maggi was hot and good! Rs. 25/- per plate.

Padmaja bought some souvenirs from the shop and we left after finishing our Maggi.

By then the cloud cover was lowering and visibility was shrinking. Our driver was careful and drove sedately down the mountains. We stopped at a beautiful waterfall we had skipped on the way up. By then the clouds were drifting into the car and the temperature was dropping. We took a few photos and left. Soon visibility was down to 50 feet and on a mountain road that was a frightening experience.

We made it safely back to Gangtok and it started raining 15 minutes after we reached the Mintokling Guest House. And boy did it rain! It was like the cyclonic storms we get in the Deccan Plateu. Luckily it stopped raining long enough for me to go down to M. G. Marg for a packed dinner-to-go, channa batura and masala dosa. Yes I know. But we are sick of chow mien.

It is still raining. Hopefully it will stop by tomorrow. We plan to see some of Gangtok city tomorrow before returning to the sweltering plains on Saturday.

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This post is being typed on my Sony Ericsson P1i while we are on our way to Tsomgo Lake, at a height of 12000 feet above sea level.

And I still have a BSNL mobile signal!

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Local Sightseeing.

The entire day today was spent in local sightseeing. Pema, the manager of Mintokling had booked a taxi for us yesterday and Kiran Chettri, our driver for the day, arrived with his Maruti WagonR well before the allotted time of 9.00 am. I got up early in [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 15, Day 5, 9.00 pm:

Local Sightseeing.

The entire day today was spent in local sightseeing. Pema, the manager of Mintokling had booked a taxi for us yesterday and Kiran Chettri, our driver for the day, arrived with his Maruti WagonR well before the allotted time of 9.00 am. I got up early in the hope of catching a glimpse of Kanchenjunga from the hotel windows but was disappointed by the cloud cover. Any the good thing was that I was able to get breakfast started with tea brewed in a glass of water with a small immersion heater, sugar cubes, milk powder and tea bags yea i know how to cook! Or at least make tea, coffee and omelets.

We managed to be ready to leave just before 9.00 am, no small feat with 2 small kids to be dragged out of a warm bed and fed breakfast after they brush their teeth and take their baths. We packed my bag with a water bottle, some snacks, binoculars, spare clothes for Bablu, silk scarfs for the kids and Padmaja, and two folding umbrellas. I of course had my camera bag as well as the camera tripod in it’s case.

We met Pema ‘upstairs’ and were introduced to Kiran, our driver for the day. We went over our agenda for the day and asked for a few modifications. Essentially added the Ban Jhakari Waterfall (10 km from Gangtok) and the Ling Dum Monastery (about e4 kms from the waterfalls, in the same diection. Also added Hanuman Tok and Tashi View Point to the itinerary. The price agreed upon was Rs. 1200/- for the deal as against the original Rs. 800/- for the original tour plan of the following:

1. Enchen Monastery 2. Tibetology Institute 3. Handi crafts and Handlooms Exhibition 4. Flower Show 5. Ganesh Tok 6. Stupa 7. Ropeway

We first visited the Enchen Monastery.l, a beautiful place festooned with prayer flags and located at the top of a hill opposite the TV tower. Photography is allowed outside the temple but not inside. We went in and sat for some time behind the monks chanting prayers.

On the way to Enchen we crossed the Flower Show and realized how close it was to Mintokling. Padmaja and I talked it over and decided to drop the ‘points’ inside the city of Gangtok and visit the waterfalls and Ling Dum. The price went up to Rs. 1400/- for the whole day.

Kiran then took us to Hanuman Tok and there we got the best treat of the day – a clearing of the clouds shrouding Kanchenjunga and our first glimpse of that mighty peak. I have taken photographs, both with the digital as well as my SLR with the telephoto. Can’t say how they will come out till I reach Bhubaneswar on Monday. Hanuman Tokk was beautiful with a great view of a part of the Gangtok valley.

After that we visited Ganesh Tok. Again a small, modern temple perched on a hill top, with a fantastic view of the valley. Kiran pointed out some land marks including the old royal palace nestling on top of the same hill as our guest house, Mingtokling.

After Ganesh Tok we visited the Tashi View Point, a hill commanding a good view of the surrounding hills and valleys. There is a souvenir shop on the road side which seems to be organized by the army, or so we were told. Anyway the prices on the regular souvenir trinkets was the best we have seen so far. We also had good veg Momos and Paneer Pakodas at the small fast food stall next to the souvenir shop. Padmaja bought a ton of stuff at the souvenir shop.

From Tashi we started for the Ban Jankri (spelling?) Waterfalls. We had to cross the valley and the roads to the falls are in poor repair. They are maintained by the local PWD while the roads around Ganesh Tok etc are maintained by the BRO, the Border Roads Organization, an Indian Army entity.

The waterfall is a beautiful area. Deep in the forests, the area is beautifully landscaped to show off the natural terrain and to highlight the local tribal population. Ban Jakri (spelling?) is how the tribal medicine man is called. There are walkways that allow you to approach the foot of the waterfall. I have taken many photographs and will use them to describe the area once I get back to Bhubaneswar as I have no way of transfering the images from the camera to my phone for uploading.

A word of caution:- Don’t eat at the veg restaurant on the first floor of the Energy Museum building. The food is BAD! And the service is so pathetic that I would rather not talk about it.

From the falls we went to the Ling Dum (spelling?) Monastery. This monastery is closer than Rumthek and is not as old, being only about a 100 years old. It is a beautiful place and colourful. Also they allow photography inside the shrine whose walls are covered with beautiful paintings of the life of the Budha. The large idol of the Budha dominates the shrine.

Outside there is a small garden and a eatery that makes nice veg Momos. They charge the same for a cup of coffee as a plate of Momos, Rs. 25/-

After the Monastery we returned to Gangtok and stopped at Lal Bazaar to buy me a jacket for the visit to Tsomgo Lake tomorrow. The bazaar has some good bargains.

After dropping off Padmaja and the kids at the hotel, I walked down to M. G. Marg to pick up something for dinner. I stopped at the Square restaurant for fried rice, chicken curry and chowmien. I had some of Danny’s beer, Hit, while I waited.

Tomorrow we are to visit Tsomogo Lake and must start early.

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We arrived in Gangtok at 2.30 pm. Had a little trouble finding the Mintokling Guest House but our driver was up to the challenge. He stopped other cab drivers and got his directions.

Mintokling Guest House turned out to be a very pretty house built on multiple levels with [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 14, Day 4, 2.30 pm:

We arrived in Gangtok at 2.30 pm. Had a little trouble finding the Mintokling Guest House but our driver was up to the challenge. He stopped other cab drivers and got his directions.

Mintokling Guest House turned out to be a very pretty house built on multiple levels with the entrance towards the top of the house and the ground floor lower down the hill side. The enclosing garden is terraced and full of flowers. There is a lawn at the nottom of the garden with a small gold fish pond, benches and more flowers.

The rooms are spacious, with wooden floors and ceiling. A wardrobe, two single sofas, a bedside cabinet, a wall mirror with shelves below, a small TV on a cabinet with storage complete the room’s furniture. Very comfortable.

We had asked for an extra bed and that turned out to be a mattress thrown on the floor with a bed sheet and two blankets.

The lady in charge, Pema L. Pulger, is very nice and efficient. We quickly checked in and were taken ‘downstairs’ to our third floor room.

We ordered lunch from room service while we all took showers. The food was tasty but in very small quantities. What we expected to feed the entire family was barely sufficient for the two kids.

After a late lunch I went ‘upstairs’ to the office to meet Pema and inquire about local tourist spots and arrangements to visit them. She had multiple options available to cover the entire day. She has a tie up with a local taxi service and offers good prices. These options include a number of ‘Points’. For example Ganesh Tok, Flower Show are two points. A day trip consists of 7 or more points and are priced accordingly. You can take a standard, pre-defined set of ‘Points’ or customize your own itinerary. The price will have to be negotiated of course. We told Pema ro book us a 7 Point trip the next day. We also asked her about Tsomgo Lake and were told that it would cost Rs. 2000/- for a Maruti WagonR with driver and that the trip would take a whole day. There could still be snow on the roads beyond Tsomgo Lake. That means the Baba Temple and Nathula Pass are inaccessible.

After that we walked down to M. G. Marg. Every city in India has a Mahatma Gandhi Marg!

M. G. Marg is easy walking distance from Mintokling. We took the alleyways or rather the stairs between houses to Tibet Road. From there it is a easy walk downhill to M. G. Marg. The marg is a cobbled street with flowers in pots and flower beds dond the middle. Large ornate lamps lit up the entire road. There are tour operators, cafes, fast food joints, grocery stores, banks, pharmacies, restaurants, souvenir shops and hotels on this road. There arw cast iron benches along the central verge. All in all a beautiful place.

Our first stop was the tourism office to ask about Tsomgo Lake trips. The gentleman there was very helpful and told us that permits are required and that rhe tour operators would handle all the details. It would cost about Rs. 1600/- to hire a car and driver. For the permits we need photocopies of some ‘ID Proof’ like A PAN Card, Passport or Driver’s License. Also required are two passport sized photographs of each person. There are a number of photography shops on M. G. Marg and it cost us Rs. 60/- for 4 photos of Mamli and Bablu, i.e., Rs. 30/- each. Photocopies of our PAN Cards cost Rs. 2/- each.

We had pastries and coffee at a Bakery cum Cafe before approaching two different tour operators. After negotiating with both we took their visiting cards to the gentleman at the tourism office for his opinion. He told us that the negotiated price of 1600/- to the lake was fair and the operator who had offered that price was dependable. We went back and booked the tour, giving an advance of Rs. 500/- and all the documents.

After that we backed back to Tibet Road and the Tangerine Restaurant for dinner. Tangerine is located on the ground floor of a Hotel which means it is 4 floors below road level. The food was delicious and inexpensive. A meal for 4 with Chicken Momos, Rice Noodles with oyster mushrooms, Chicken fried rice and a country chicken curry cooked the Sikkimese way cost me Rs. 360/-.

By the we were done it was 9.30 pm and the streets were deserted. We managed to find a taxi who charged us Rs. 50/- for the 1 kilometer uphill drive to Mintokling. We were very tired and fell asleep soon.

I am hoping to get a glimpse of Kanchenjunga tomorrow morning. Will try to wake up by 5 am for that chance.

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We left Kolkata by Darjeeling Express, leaving Sealdah station at 10.05 pm. Did some shopping at Shree Leathers, Lindsay Street and the footpaths of Esplanade.

The train was a hour late, arriving in New Jalpaiguri at 9.00 am. Mr. Chaudhari of the local LIC office picked us up and [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 14, Day 4, 10.30 am:

We left Kolkata by Darjeeling Express, leaving Sealdah station at 10.05 pm. Did some shopping at Shree Leathers, Lindsay Street and the footpaths of Esplanade.

The train was a hour late, arriving in New Jalpaiguri at 9.00 am. Mr. Chaudhari of the local LIC office picked us up and took us to their guest house in Silliguri for breakfast.

Padmaja had booked a taxi to take us to Gangtok. SAIL has a marketing office in Suliguri and she called the local branch manager. He got her in touch with their travel agent / cab operator. As a result we didn’t have to worry about finding a taxi in New Jalpaiguri.

Our driver is a Nepali who thinks he is driving Formula 1. He also has this annoying habit of braking suddenly in a way that leaves ones stomach about 18 feet behind. Also he manages to jerk the car very badly every time he changes gears.

We should be in Gangtok in about 4 hours. I want to send this off while I still have a GPRS connection.

Will post again from Gangtok.2.

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Falakunama Express arrived on time at Howrah. My uncle’s driver, Mandal-da, was there to pick us up and we drove actoss the old Howrah bridge to Park Street where my uncle and aunt have a flat.

I had saved my previous two emailed posts as I was [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 13, 2009, Day 3 – Kolkata:

Falakunama Express arrived on time at Howrah. My uncle’s driver, Mandal-da, was there to pick us up and we drove actoss the old Howrah bridge to Park Street where my uncle and aunt have a flat.

I had saved my previous two emailed posts as I was getting an intermittent signal in the train near Kharagpur, my old college. At my uncle’s flat. I tried connecting and received a rude shock. GPRS no longer worked! That is when I realised that what I had taken for dropped connections on the train was actually the loss of GPRS when I entered West Bengal.

I spent a frantic hour trying to figure out what was wrong. My aunt didn’t have a BSNL directory and I went looking for a PCO who might be able to at least give me the local BSNL Call Center number. I did get the number but I somehow kept getting the Karnataka call center instead of Bengal. Finally gave up in disgust and went for a shower morosely contemplating a week without internet access. Till we crossed back in to Odissa again.

After my shower I found that GPRS service had been restored! Well, I am not complaining!

I am not sure what will happen when we cross over from West Bengal in to Sikim tomorrow morning but I am keeping my fingers crossed. If that happens I will continue to post but they wull appear in a rush when I get my connection back in Odissa.

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Falaknuma Express stopped outside a small village in Bengal. A large crowd of men, women and children quickly gathered to gape.

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Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 12, 2009, Day 2, 3.15 pm:

Falaknuma Express stopped outside a small village in Bengal. A large crowd of men, women and children quickly gathered to gape.

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I suppose it is the uncomfortable berths but I always wake up very early in trains. The fact that most people are asleep and I can brush my teeth without cheerleaders also seems important somehow.

Anyway, here I am, up nice and early, teeth as clean [...] No related posts. Related posts brought to you by Yet Another Related Posts Plugin.]]> April 12, 2009, 5.30 am, Day 2:

I suppose it is the uncomfortable berths but I always wake up very early in trains. The fact that most people are asleep and I can brush my teeth without cheerleaders also seems important somehow.

Anyway, here I am, up nice and early, teeth as clean as they will get on a train. Everybody else is asleep. The sun is up though the drawn curtains don’t let in much light. I have always had a fascination for staring out the window of a speedilng train, a pleasure that my kids don’t seem to know exists. My daughter, Mamli, would rather read a book and my son, Bablu, would rather play a game on my mobile or watch a movie on it. I suppose they just aren’t used to the fun part of travelling yet. I did a lot of travelling with my parents and sister when I was a child but between Padmaja’s and my job, we don’t get to take a vacation often.

So much for pleasant early morning thoughts!

Here is today’s first photo, taken through the window of the train with my Sony Ericsson P1i in burst mode and then resized on the phone.

Photo taken from Falakunama Express early in the morning.

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